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Travelling Through Frisia to the Dutch Coast

Fortified city gate with the sea in the background.

Frisia, the region along the German North Sea Coast, was flat, open, and sparsely populated. Between major trade ports like Hamburg, Bremen, and Emden, there were mainly smaller towns and villages. Samuel Kiechel left Bremen and travelled west through this region. His destination was the Netherlands, that is, the independent Dutch provinces. But the further west he went, the more he began to notice the signs of the war that devastated the Low Countries, spilling across the borders to Germany in the form of migrants and bandits.

Westward

Samuel Kiechel spent 15 July in Bremen and left the following day in the company of a West Frisian nobleman and his servant. Kiechel learnt that the nobleman had to leave his hometown due to war — presumably the Eighty Years’ War (or Dutch War of Independence). The three men hired a carter to drive them west to Delmenhorst, five miles from Bremen.

In Delmenhorst, Kiechel saw a splendid fortress and discovered it belonged to Count Johann of Oldenburg (Johann VII of Oldenburg and Delmenhorst). The travellers did not linger but proceeded on their journey, arriving in Oldenburg in the afternoon. Their route took them through forests and across open heathland.

The three men had dinner in Oldenburg before hiring another carter to take them another five miles. They left Oldenburg in the evening and travelled through the night. The road once again passed across open heathland. Before dawn on 17 July, they reached the village of Fronberg in the territory of the Count of Emden. In Fronberg, the travellers paused to try drying their clothes and belongings, as it had rained during the night.

A cart on a rural road with a man walking beside it. In the background, there is a windmill.

Eventually, they hired another carter to drive them to Aurich, three miles from Fronberg. According to Kiechel, Aurich was poorly built but had a strong castle. The town served as the seat of the Counts of Frisia.

On his journey from Bremen to Emden, Samuel Kiechel travelled along the North Sea coast in what is now the German state of Lower Saxony. Lower Saxony is a modern name. In the sixteenth century, the region consisted of two counties: Oldenburg and East Frisia. The landscape Kiechel observed on his journey was a distinctive mixture of marshland, moors, and sandy heathland due to its proximity to the sea.

East Frisia, 1570

The region lay on the fringes of the Holy Roman Empire. Unlike the feudal societies that dominated much of medieval Europe, the Frisian tribes managed to retain their autonomy and freedom until the fifteenth century. The so-called ‘Frisian freedom’ ended when the elected military leaders and chieftains began to establish themselves as the ruling elite, carving out domains for themselves. They redefined ‘freedom‘ not as personal liberty but as freedom from foreign rulers. The lack of unity meant the disparate Frisian communities could no longer withstand external attacks. Some parts of the region were subdued, while others were incorporated into the Empire under the chieftains. The House of Cirksena descended from a line of chieftains and became the rulers of the County of East Frisia. When Kiechel visited the County, it was governed by Edzard II (1532-1599), who resided in Aurich.

In Emden

In Aurich, Kiechel and his companions tried to find another carter to take them the remaining two miles to Emden. Their search was difficult because the townspeople were reluctant to assist. Kiechel learned that they were concerned about their horses. Bandits and “Freibeuter” (licensed privateers) threatened the area. Eventually, the travellers found someone willing to take them to Emden, arriving there in the evening.

The gates of Emden were heavily guarded, and the travellers had to wait half an hour before they were allowed in. The guards recorded their names and where they came from. The innkeeper where Kiechel stayed did the same.

Personal identification was unknown in the sixteenth century. Instead, travellers faced questioning at city gates like those of Emden. Collecting names of those seeking entry was part of the security measures designed to keep out spies and criminals. The guards documented the names, and, according to Kiechel, the innkeeper did likewise. Both lists were compared to spot any discrepancies. Kiechel encountered similar precautions several times during his journey.

The security measures in Emden were strict because of the nearby Dutch border. Emden was on the eastern bank of the Ems estuary. Groningen, on the opposite side, had fallen under Spanish control in 1580, prompting many Dutch Protestants to flee to Emden. The bandits and “Freibeuter” Kiechel mentioned as threatening the area were a result of the conflict.

The Ems Estuary, 1570

The proximity to the Dutch border was both an advantage and a risk for the city. On one hand, the war could easily spill over the border, as it did in 1568 when a Spanish mercenary army pursued fleeing Dutch troops into East Frisia and, after defeating them, carried out a spree of death and destruction. On the other hand, many Dutch Calvinists, having fled their homeland, settled in Emden and strengthened the city’s prosperity and commercial success. Its strategic position on the Ems and its secure harbour allowed Emden to become an essential trading hub during a time when Dutch ports were under blockade by the Spanish.

Samuel Kiechel described Emden as a small, well-constructed, and pleasant city. It was under the authority of the Count of Emden and served as the capital of East Frisia. Emden’s proximity to the sea, with an inlet from the Ems River leading into the city, enabled ships to anchor within the walls.

View of Emden, 1575

A bird’s-eye view in the “Civitates Orbis Terrarum” shows Emden from the south. The city is fortified with walls and surrounded by canals. Two large canals extend deep into Emden, seemingly dividing the city into four sections. These canals also form the city’s harbour. As Kiechel noted, many ships were moored within the boundaries of Emden.

Samuel Kiechel planned to continue his journey by sea, but no vessel dared to set sail. Privateers prowled the waters, making travel dangerous. Several warships were expected to arrive in Emden to escort the other vessels. Kiechel was compelled to wait in Emden from 17 to 24 July.

The Eighty Years’ War (1568-1648)

Travelling west from Bremen along the North Sea coast, Samuel Kiechel approached the border between the Holy Roman Empire and the Netherlands. Since 1568, the Low Countries had been embroiled in a conflict between its independent northern provinces and the southern provinces remaining under Spanish rule.

Map of the Low Countries, 1570

The Low Countries became part of the Habsburg Empire when Maximilian I (1459–1519) inherited the Burgundian Netherlands following the death of his wife, Mary of Burgundy, in 1482. Maximilian and his successors steadily expanded their holdings, and his grandson, Charles V (1500–1558), ruled over a domain that encompassed the Holy Roman Empire, Austria, Spain, Italy, the Netherlands and the Spanish colonies in America.

Charles V was born in Ghent, Flanders. Growing up in the region gave him a personal connection and interest in the Netherlands. But this changed after his abdication in 1556. The Habsburg Empire was divided between Charles’ son Philip II of Spain (1527–1598) and his brother Ferdinand (1503-1564).

Philip inherited Spain, southern Italy, the American colonies, and the Netherlands. Born and raised in Spain, Philip’s upbringing at the Spanish court greatly influenced his personality and political approach. After ascending to the throne, the Burgundian, Flemish and Dutch provinces became marginalised. The local nobility, which had previously held influence and power in provincial administration under Charles, was sidelined. Philip appointed his half-sister, Margaret of Parma, as regent, and an increasing number of Spanish noblemen assumed governance of the provinces.

Additionally, the Protestant Reformation took hold in the Netherlands during the mid-sixteenth century, with Calvinism becoming particularly popular. The staunchly Catholic Philip sought to suppress this movement, leading to widespread religious persecution.

People destroy the interior of a Catholic church during the Beeldenstorm.

Destruction of Church Decorations, 1566

The Eighty Years’ War began with a series of minor attacks, insurrections, and revolts against high taxes, religious repression, and political marginalisation. Over time, it evolved into a war of independence. However, no single significant event or formal declaration marked the start of the protracted conflict. Historians often retrospectively identify the ‘Beeldenstorm’ in 1566 — when Dutch Calvinists destroyed religious images and decorations in many cities — as the war’s beginning. Nonetheless, there is no consensus on this.

Initially, the Spanish responded swiftly and suppressed the revolts. However, their brutal tactics, which included sacking cities and massacring garrisons, alienated the local population. When Spain went bankrupt in 1575 and unpaid Spanish mercenaries rampaged through the Low Countries, even the previously loyal Catholic provinces joined the rebellion. In 1576, the provinces reached the Pacification of Ghent, agreeing to unite in their efforts to expel all foreign armies.

Print depicting the sack of Antwerp with marauding soldiers killing the citizens.

Sack of Antwerp, 1576

This cooperation was short-lived. Radical Calvinists antagonised some southern provinces while Spanish forces regained control of others. In 1579, the Calvinist northern provinces formed the Union of Utrecht and declared independence from Spanish rule in 1581.

The conflict, especially the Spanish repression of Dutch Calvinists, had a direct effect on neighbouring countries, notably the Holy Roman Empire. Many Dutch fled and settled in German cities near the border. Kiechel observed encountering numerous Dutch people in Hamburg and Bremen. Since these refugees often included merchants and artisans, their skills greatly contributed to the prosperity of the cities where they settled.

In the 1580s, during Samuel Kiechel’s visit, Spain was expanding its control by reconquering southern provinces. In 1584, William the Silent (1533-1584), the leader of the Dutch Revolt, was assassinated, and a year later, Antwerp fell after a Spanish siege. Kiechel learned about the blockade while travelling to England and visited Antwerp on his return journey.

In 1585, the English decided to support the Dutch provinces by sending troops and financial aid to the rebels. The defeat of the Spanish Armada in 1588 marked the end of Spanish successes. That same year, the Dutch rebels established the Republic of the Seven United Provinces. Under Maurice of Orange (1567-1625), William the Silent’s son, the provinces united and started retaking several fortified cities from the Spanish.

Painting depicting the ratification of the Treaty of Münster.

The Ratification of the Treaty of Münster, 1648

After this period of intense conflict, a long truce was agreed upon that lasted from 1609 to 1621. Once the ceasefire ended, the conflict resumed, although neither side made significant gains or losses. Meanwhile, the devastating Thirty Years’ War (1618-1648) raged in neighbouring Germany, diverting attention from the Dutch conflict. The war concluded in 1648 with the Peace of Münster, where Spain recognised the independence of the northern provinces but retained control over the southern Low Countries.

Illustrations & References

All images are in order of appearance with links to sources on external websites:


  1. Die Reisen des Samuel Kiechel aus drei Handschriften, K. D. Haszler (ed.), Stuttgart 1866, p. 14; Bayerische Staatsbibliothek. ↩︎